Until a few years ago, Nazaré, a small village on the coast of Portugal, was predominantly known for its fishing industry and, in summer, tourism. The first records of fishermen in Nazaré date back to 1643 and it has been steeped in this tradition ever since. For centuries Nazaré’s fishermen braved the dangerous ocean and some of the world’s largest waves to provide for their families. From 2010 a new breed of ocean dweller would flock to the Portuguese town’s shore: big wave surfers.
Big wave surfing dates back to the 1970s, but in recent decades, well-known surfers like Laird Hamilton have helped to put it on the map. The majority of big wave spots were in the Pacific: Jaws and Waimea Bay in Hawaii, Mavericks in California, and Teahupo’o in Tahiti. However, big wave surfers have always longed to find a bigger wave, wondering if a 100-foot wave existed. They found it in Nazaré, Portugal.
Garrett McNamara was the first to surf Nazaré’s big waves, but it was a local bodyboarder, Dino Casimiro, who emailed McNamara asking him to come to Nazaré. Before McNamara, surfers and bodyboarders visited the beach frequently during the months when the swell was smaller, surfing the smaller waves. A group of Portuguese friends, which included Casimiro, realised that the town’s economy needed a boost during the winter months. The town’s residents, who primarily depend on fishing for a living, have seen the ocean provide less and less over time and the economy was suffering.
During the 2021/2022 big wave surfing season, sports journalist Matt Majendie lived among Nazaré insiders such as surfers Andrew Cotton, Maya Gabeira, Sebastian Steudtner, Nic von Rupp, and jet-ski driver Sérgio Cosme, dubbed “the Guardian Angel of Nazaré.” Each provides a different perspective on the Nazaré surf scene according to their personal experiences. The Brazilian-born Maya Gabeira is currently the female World Record holder, but her career hasn’t been an easy one. It’s been made difficult by sexism, verbal abuse and territorial discrimination. Sebastian Steudtner, a German surfer who currently holds the male world record, grew up in the land-locked Nuremberg, but was passionate about surfing from an early age. Sebastian, who is also known as “the “surfing scientist,” is constantly working with the support of his sponsors Porsche and Siemens to increase big wave surfing safety.
Nazaré is known as surfing’s Mount Everest. It’s situated in a complex geological area which consists of an underwater canyon which goes from 5000 metres in depth to just 50 by the time it reaches the lighthouse. It’s notorious for it’s brutality and as Steudtner states: “You need to have that psychopath in you, and I definitely have that.” Like all big wave surfers he realises that this “psychopathic” drive could cost his life, which is why he does everything within his power to make sure it doesn’t happen to him or anyone else. It is also necessary to emphasise the importance of teamwork in preventing accidents. Skilled jet-ski drivers like Sérgio Cosme play an important role not only in towing surfers into the wave, but also in rescuing them afterwards. Each is reliant on the other and works as a unit, frequently switching roles.
Every cubic metre behind a surfer is equivalent to a tonne. If a surfer rides a wave of 65 feet, it’s 20 tonnes just for the width of the surfer on a board. There’s no doubt that there’s an immense risk of serious injury and fatality. Both surfers and their families realise each time they go out on a big wave that they could die. Concussions in particular are severely understated in terms of injury severity, which is likely due to ego. Derek Dunfee, who sustained a concussion that has affected him for the rest of his life, claims that there is silence regarding concussive effects “thanks to the bravado that goes with such an inherently dangerous pastime.”
There are numerous injury stories, including surfers who were knocked unconscious and nearly drowned, dislocated elbows, teeth knocked out by jet-ski handlebars, earlobes ripped off, and broken backs. However, the desire for the next adrenaline rush always outweighs the fear of injury or death. Apart from the thrill of it, there is also the desire for recognition, to be the best, and ultimately to break the World Record. It’s a fiercely competitive sport. Local big wave surfer, Nic von Rupp, admits: “…surfing is your best friend and your worst enemy, It turns you into a really selfish person, It’s you, your wave and that’s it.”
During Majendie’s visit HBO was also filming the documentary The 100 Foot Wave, which undoubtedly contributed to the town’s popularity and changing demographic. The group of friends who wanted to drive more people to Nazaré succeeded. It is now a worldwide brand. But it has also changed the town: housing is more expensive, and locals can no longer afford to live there. Steudther is concerned about the influx of surfers and influencers to Nazaré, describing it as “a kindergarten without teachers.” More risks are being taken for more followers and likes.
In Portugal, it is said that whatever the sea wants, the sea takes. Many fishermen’s lives have been lost over the years, and Nazaré’s big wave claimed its first big wave surfing victim in January of this year. This is a stark reminder that big wave surfing, despite its almost mythical status, is one of the most dangerous sports today. Fortunately, Majendie’s book offers a balanced and realistic perspective. If the sport of big wave surfing piques your interest, you’ll appreciate this eye-opening read.
Nazaré: Life and Death with the Big Wave Surfers is published by Wellbeck Publishing and local publishers, Jonathan Ball, kindly gave me a copy for review.